Is fast fashion killing originality?

Fast fashion has become notorious over the past decade. Ultra-fast fashion giants like Shein and Boohoo have revolutionised the way we shop.

12:03 29 January 2024

Fast fashion has become notorious over the past decade. Ultra-fast fashion giants like Shein and Boohoo have revolutionised the way we shop, offering super cheap clothing and turning over new collections in a matter of weeks. While it has made runway styles more attainable and offered more plus-sized clothing options for shoppers, there is a lot of controversy surrounding this business model.

Not only are there ethical concerns surrounding the visibility of many brand’s supply chains, but there are also concerns about companies stealing designs and impacting smaller businesses. Independent designers are increasingly having their designs stolen and sold at subpar quality and at more competitive prices. Often, shoppers buy these pieces while being completely unaware of where the design originated from.

When it comes to fashion, copyright law can leave little protection for creators. Laws across the globe are slightly different, which creates loopholes for fast fashion giants. Many large fashion companies outsource their production to countries across the globe, which not only makes the supply chain less transparent, but it also makes the legalities more complicated.

While brands like Shein are coming under increasing scrutiny for this, more established high-street names like Zara and H&M have come under fire for copying luxury brands. Often, legal support is required to navigate the complexities in this part of the law. While some may believe this is less of an issue compared to independent designers being copied, there’s no denying that copying another designer’s pieces is enough to stir up controversy in the fashion community. For this reason, legal action may feel like a natural route to go down.

It begs the question – is fast fashion killing originality?

While the rise of social media has allowed creatives to take inspiration from and evolve existing ideas, there’s a line. Outright copying of other designs can leave a bittersweet taste in people’s mouths. On the one hand, it allows consumers to access designs that might otherwise be unattainable, however, if this is at the expense of independent businesses, it can feel wholly unfair.

To combat the effects of fast fashion, many have been driven towards second-hand shopping to seek more individual pieces and stand out. Affordability and originality are constantly in competition with one another in today’s fashion landscape.

Something else to consider is the wider issue of unethical supply chains. To recreate designs at a cheaper price point, it involves haggling down supplier prices, which in turn means that garment makers are receiving a lower wage. There are endless reports highlighting the issues surrounding garment worker rights, their pay and the conditions in which many fast fashion items are created. The so-called ‘race to the bottom’ is largely to blame for this culture within fashion. We as consumers expect cheap clothing to the extent that entirely new standards have been set, so anything priced above these new standards feels too expensive.

What are your thoughts? Should fast fashion companies receive tighter restrictions to help protect originality in fashion?